Could you folks contribute to a list of factory take-off barrel dimensions?
For example, I've an accurate Sako p94 finnfire varmint barrel, and am wondering if it could be turned down to fit a Remington 504 receiver.
A list of the following barrels tenon length and diameter would be most useful:
Sako p94 finnfire and quad
Remington 504, 580/540 etc.
Ruger 10/22 and 77/22
Marlin 80 series
Anschutz 54 and 64 series, 2013 series
physician heal thyself?
Ok, so I disassembled a couple and came up with the following:
Barrel diameter at receiver .9165
Tenon diameter .6875
Tenon length .7455
Sako P94 Finnfire
Barrel diameter at receiver .920
Tenon diameter .7085
Tenon length 1.647
CZ 455 Bull Varmint
Barrel diameter at receiver .863
Tenon diameter .7065
Tenon length 1.190
I'd still like to have the dimensions for the Anschutz 2013, as well as others that either slip fit with pins or come from clamping actions.
Last edited by obx22; 02-01-2017 at 02:01 PM.
You sure about the Sako tenon? It's been a while but I remember them at about .708-.712.
Originally Posted by obx22
I can add a few............
2000 Series Anschutz action tennons are approx .8665" x 2.390" in length (the diameter should be verified against the action ID for a light press fit - .0005" under action ID)
Walther KK300 action shanks are 20mm (.785") X 2.800" (they are secured with retaining compound).
I will post the Anschutz round 54 action shank data later (I am at work!)
Originally Posted by burtona
Good catch, I've edited after remeasuring.
what is the best method used to remove a barrel from a Walther action that has been secured with "retaining compound"? Sounds like some serious stuff. I have a KK500 that will have the barrel replaced and just wanted your advice/opinion
Originally Posted by kevin nevius
The factory barrels are fairly easy to remove (at least regarding the KK300), the retaining fluid they use would probably be classified a medium strength (similar to a Loctite 641).
Originally Posted by RBS
I let the action heat soak by setting a clothes iron on its highest setting, and resting it on the flat action bottom (I have the barreled action in a barrel vise, and an aluminum action wrench on the action itself). After a few hours, the action will break loose with a little torque, and will twist off (the glue has broken down at that point).
I have tested barrels re-installed with 641 (medium) and 609 (high strength), and in my limited experience, the stronger adhesive produces better accuracy. It is MUCH more difficult to remove though - a simple heat soaking is definitely NOT enough. I have been setting up the action in the lathe and turning the barrels out with the 609.
I will have a KK500 in the shop next week, it should be interesting to see how Walther is securing barrels these days.
All the best,
thanks, and if you get a chance and don't mind, let us know how the KK500 barrel removal went